These floating boutique hotels are an alternative to river ships
If the thought of barging brings to mind dark, dingy boats on grimy industrial-era canals then you’ve been reading too many Victorian novels. Many canals run through beautiful European countryside and have towpaths upgraded for walking and cycling.
Barge decor and service now resemble that of country inns or contemporary boutique hotels, albeit more cramped. Kir Royale, for example, carries just eight guests but squeezes in a lounge, dining area, spa pool, bar, piano, and several decks.
Kir Royale launches this month, celebrating 50 years of European Waterways.
Kir Royale launched in May to celebrate the 50th anniversary of its owner, European Waterways, Europe’s biggest luxury hotel-barge company. It will sail the Marne River and Marne Canal in France between May and October, during which guests will enjoy tours, tastings and gourmet lunches at champagne houses.
If you want a slower, more personalised form of river cruising and intimate regional focus to your journey, barging is for you. You’ll travel much shorter distances; perhaps only 100 kilometres over the average six-day barge holiday.
The pace is slow, but you can hop off any time to walk or cycle; most barges carry bicycles. The chief pastimes are sightseeing, socialising, snoozing and watching the scenery drift by.
Barges can’t operate on large rivers and cover limited territory, so you’ll miss big-name sights, although some itineraries offer excursions by coach. If you’ve never been to Europe, best do a multi-country river cruise on the Rhine or Danube instead.
However, barging takes you to places river cruises don’t, such as the Canal du Midi in south-west France, or the Burgundy Canal that wends past vineyards and chateaux. Cruising the Shannon Waterway gets you into the brooding heartland of Ireland, with its monasteries and ruined castles.
About 70 vessels operate in Europe, the vast majority in France, which has a superb network of historic canals now largely devoted to tourism. You can also barge in Belgium, England, Germany, Ireland, Italy, the Netherlands and Scotland.
Among companies operating barge holidays are Abercrombie and Kent, Barge Lady Cruises, Belmond, European Waterways, French Country Waterways, G Adventures, UTracks and river-cruise company CroisiEurope.
A Belmond barge in the French countryside.
Because numbers are limited (the biggest barges carry 20 passengers), barging holidays are somewhat more expensive than regular river cruises, but you do get a more exclusive experience and more attentive and personalised service.
You have what almost amounts to a personal chef; expect a distinct regional menu and multi-course meals. Dining choices are more limited than on river cruises, though French cheese plates can be magnificent.
Luxury barge cruising is mostly all-inclusive. Almost every barge is different in layout, style and age; some date back to the 1930s. Cabins have en-suites in all but the most budget barges.
Amenities are obviously more limited than on a river-cruise ship. Most barges have one combined lounge and dining space, sometimes a gym, plus an outdoor deck. But what more do you need if you fancy a holiday in the slow lane?
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