Serving looks: For winter, tennis is once again shaping our wardrobes

Anyone for tennis? This season, even the most racket-averse among us are set to be persuaded into a match – or at least looking like we’re ready for one – as the “tenniscore” trend goes Grand Slam.

Ostensibly, it’s Zendaya and her forthcoming tennis-themed Challengers film which is responsible for court-worthy clothing threatening to become as ubiquitous as strawberries and cream at Wimbledon. She’s currently touring the world in a succession of tennis-themed looks which rival the method dressing of Margot Robbie promoting Barbie in a succession of pink ensembles.

On Monday, there were custom Loewe stilettos with (branded) tennis balls spiked through the heels, over the weekend there was a green and white checked Louis Vuitton coat – an archive piece from the spring/summer 2013 collection – which recalled a perfectly manicured grass tennis lawn and in Australia last month, the star went even more literal in a sequinned gown emblazoned with a tennis racket motif. Optic tennis-white tailoring, neat pleated tennis skirts and custom-made Lacoste looks have also featured in the line-up, curated by Zendaya’s “Image architect” (his spin on the stylist job title) Law Roach.

In Challengers, directed by Luca Guadagnino – who is also responsible for the aesthetically aspirational Call Me By Your Name (Oliver’s preppy swagger and Elio’s mother’s Max Mara on holiday vibe are key references) and A Bigger Splash (see Tilda Swinton’s ultra-chic summer wardrobe) – Zendaya plays a tennis professional turned coach who appears to have all the sporty sleekness of a devotee at the highest levels of the sport. But what the film is really doing is offering an excuse to mine a more genteel version of tennis dressing which harks back to its status as a sport beloved of the old money, country club elite.

“Done well, there’s simply no chicer sporting outfit,” says Laura Ward, founder and CEO of upscale tennis label Exeat, which specialises in the kind of attire made to be worn on courts where you play to be seen and then afterwards. “The tennis dress code is the perfect combination of elegance, playfulness and timelessly flattering fits – this is what makes it the most sartorially famous sport in the world,” she adds.

Ward says that interest in tennis has been growing for the past few years. On Pinterest, there’s been an uplift in tennis-related activity in the UK over the past three months; “tennis outfit” searches are up 75 per cent and “tennis skirt outfit” enquiries have gone up 50 per cent. On trainer marketplace StockX, there has been a significant rise in tennis action with a 35 per cent increase in trades of tennis trainers, especially the Nike Mac Attack, John McEnroe’s one-time favourite.

Tennis has long been fashion’s favourite sport. “The core silhouettes are deeply aesthetically pleasing and cue quiet luxury,” observes Ward.

There’s over a century of evidence for the tennis-fashion love-in. “The bestsellers in Gabrielle Chanel’s first clothing line were tennis dresses, and it was a Chanel tennis dress that scored her very first transatlantic mention in American Vogue,” says Ward.