Ignore Generation Z: You can wear ankle socks… sometimes

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Ignore Generation Z: You can wear ankle socks… sometimes

By Damien Woolnough

It’s not your sock size that counts, it’s the way that you wear them.

Foot watchers have spent months arguing about what your sock-length says about you, but they’ve all got it wrong.

The sock debate started when fitness podcaster Phoebe Parsons posted a video to TikTok in November saying: “This is exactly how you can tell the difference between a Millennial and a Gen Z just by looking at their feet,” before proudly revealing her sockless ankle and announcing, “I’m a Millennial.”

Models at the Victoria’s Secret casting in New York on August 28 demonstrate sock diversity.

Models at the Victoria’s Secret casting in New York on August 28 demonstrate sock diversity.Credit: Getty

Suddenly, crew socks stretching to the calf muscle became the double-stitched signifier of youth, championed by celebrities Jenna Ortega, Bella Hadid and Sydney Sweeney. Ankle styles and no-show sockettes, those supposedly invisible liners for loafers and ballet flats that constantly peek into view, were derided online as more ageing than Kumfs shoes.

You can wear ankle socks

As in many debates, style leaders have been too busy to follow orders from TikTok as they blazed their own trail in socks running the gamut from peek-a-boo to knee-grazing.

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The greatest diversity at last week’s New York casting for the coming Victoria’s Secret runway show was the length of the models’ socks. Crew socks, ankle socks and no-show socks were part of the off-duty model look, with many keeping their sock length a mystery beneath cowboy boots.

“Contrary to popular, or unpopular opinion, I love an ankle sock,” says Peter Simon Phillips, stylist and10 Magazine fashion editor, who doesn’t see them as agents of premature ageing.

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“We are currently focused on socks because shorts and short skirts are trending all over the international runways, and we know it’s going to be a hot summer. For some people, working out sock length is a matter of proportion between the length of your shorts or skirts, but there’s no right answer.”

“It’s not about age. I have short legs, so the shorter the sock, the longer the leg.”

In the US, crew styles are increasing in popularity, with underwear brand Hanes telling The Wall Street Journal that sales of above ankle socks are up 5.9 per cent since 2021. Sales of the brand’s low-cut socks are down 3.8 per cent.

It’s a different story in Australia with local underwear brand Paire, which specialises in merino wool, gaining ankle-length loyalty from the likes of Phillips.

“We’ve definitely seen a surge in crew sock sales. However, ankle socks remain our top seller,” says Nathan Yun, Paire co-founder. “That surge might just be because the last few months it was winter, and we traditionally see a sales increase in longer socks during colder months for obvious reasons.”

How to join the crew

Last week, Sydney stylist Danielle Cartisano, who has worked with Isla Fisher and male supermodel Lucky Blue Smith, was immersed in a group chat with her friends about sock length.

“We were split down the middle, but I can tell you, I am a Millennial and I wear crew socks,” Cartisano says. “I recently tried them and I don’t see myself going back. The other half of the group chat, ankle loyalists, refuse to get on board.”

“You see many people wearing crew styles with loafers, but I like them with sneakers. You don’t just have to stick to white socks either. You can match the colour of your socks to your sneakers for a tonal, considered look.”

The coloured sock trend has energised sales for Victorian manufacturer Humphrey Law, which has made socks since 1947. Until 2017, charcoal and black socks were the top sellers, but alpaca socks in 17 bright colours have taken their star status.

For Cartisano, coloured crew socks are reserved for athleisure inspired outfits, but she approves of their use below denim cut-off shorts and mini-skirts.

Models attend Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show casting in New York on August 28.

Models attend Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show casting in New York on August 28. Credit: Getty

Stockings and sockettes

For the more adventurous, knee-high socks are a statement that has more to do with exposure than age.

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“It’s very much a street style trend, particularly the stocking-style socks,” Cartisano says. “They’re great if you want to have that real femme look, but I prefer the contrast that you can achieve with more athletic styles, which are much more versatile.”

When it comes to no-show sockettes, stylists are divided.

“I’m relieved we don’t have to wear sockettes any more,” Cartisano says. “They always slip down and rub your feet and end up with an unfortunate aroma. You should make the most of your ankle real estate to express your personality.”

For Phillips, it’s all about context. “If it’s a sockette in a trainer, count me in. If you’re wearing it with a dress shoe, it’s best to go home, change and think long and hard about what you’ve just done.”

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